They have penalized some Realtor sites in the past as a warning - see
this blog post for more info. Link exchanges are usually just ignored by Google whether excessive or not but the sites are not usually penalized. So link exchanges for the most part are just a colossal waste of time in the end - especially if you exchange with an aggressive trader (which is just about anyone who emails you for a link exchange). Having said that, link exchanges done with carefully chosen partners with links not placed in obvious "link directories" - and in moderation - do still work.
Penalties do eventually occur however when the link exchanges appear to be organized - when they are set up by your template provider for example.
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