Originally posted by dogwood:
Patrick -
The rate he is offering is 6.5 with a $2505 buy down to 6.25. LTV 80%, for a single family home. His flat rate is $2500 and I am unclear even at this stage what the exact closing costs are. I know that I need to pay around $61,000 at closing for my down, and total costs at closing. My down in $52,000.
Bank of America will do 6.25% and are running a special of no origination fee. With a buy down to 6.25% The down payment will be $51,800 plus fees and prepaid/reserves which equal around $5000. Total borrower costs at closing $56,850.04. compared to $61,000 and change - big difference in my book.
Wells Fargo will do it for $57,500
Damon got it right above. it basically works this way:
A bank offers a loan to brokers. let's say it's a 30 yr, fixed rate loan at 5.875% (5 1/8th). And they offer that loan at "par." Par means there are no costs, but no rebates either. OK, what does that mean. Well let's step forward to step back. The bank offers the same loan at a 6.125% rate with a 1 point rebate. that 1 point is the "YSP" damon mentioned above. That means this: The bank will PAY THE BROKER one percent of the loan amount if he can sell you the loan at 6.125% instead of 5.875%. If he gets you the loan at 5.875% (par), then the bank pays him nothing. THAT is the rebate. Now, if that broker can sell you the loan at 6.25%, he might get a 1.5 point rebate. At 6.5% he gets 2 points, and so on. (I'm just using round numbers for simplicity...the rebates don't usually hike up that fast). Now here's the rub...chances are, he can get you that loan at 5.75% or even 5.5%. But if he does that, there's a cost. You (the borrower) would have to "buy down" to that rate. It might cost you 1 point up front (1% of the loan amount) to buy down to that low rate.
Now...when the bank pays a broker or loan officer through a "YSP," that's called getting paid on the "back end." Any fees (origination fees, broker fees, etc.) the originator charges to the borrower up front are called getting paid on the "front end." So, mortgage professionals can get paid two ways: on the front end from the borrower or on the back end from the bank. OR BOTH!
Now, I'm not explaining this like I'm trying to say the broker or the bank is doing anything right or wrong. Mortgage folks get paid on both ends all the time. It's just one way of doing business. The greedier ones will give you a rate that pays them well on the back end and will charge you front end costs as well. Some folks will ONLY get paid by the bank. And some will ONLY get paid by the borrower. And some get both and are very fair about it. (like me

) Sometimes a broker charges more because he's so dang busy, he needs to thin the herd and he's in a position to do it. i know brokers here in the Miami area who don't do loans less than $500,000. God bless 'em.
So who is better? Well, that depends on your perspective.
Which is a better deal?
$200,000 30 year fixed rate loan at 6.5% that costs you zero in origination fees. (NOT closing costs...that's different)
OR
$200,000 30 year fixed rate loan at 5.875% that costs you $3000 in fees? (again, NOT closing costs, that's still different)
It all depends..and this is how I, and others like me do business. I would say this to you:
Dan: Patrick, I can get you the loan you want at 6.5% or at 5.875%, but the lower rate will cost you $3000 at closing. (1.5 points)
Patrick: Wow, that sucks. Why is that?
D: Well, at the higher interest rate, the bank will pay my fees. At the lower rate, I'd have to pass my fees on to you since my family needs to eat.
P: hmmm..I see. Which is a better deal?
D: Well, let's look at it this way. How long do you plan to own the property?
P: Three years. It's a starter place. We want another kid so we'll need a larger place in a few years.
D: Then take the higher rate loan.
P: Huh? Why would I want the higher rate?
D: Well, to get the lower rate, you need to spend $3000 today. If you take the higher rate, the bank is paying me the $3000, which means you save that money for now. At the higher rate, you'll pay $1231.43/month P&I. At the lower rate, you'll pay 1183.08/month P&I (Principal plus interest). That's $48.35/month difference. If you divide $3000 by $48.35 you get 62. That means that at the higher rate, you'd have to pay into this loan for 62 months ( a bit over 5 years) to spend the same $3000 you're spending TODAY to get the lower rate. If you sell the place in 36 months (thus paying off the loan), You'll have spent $48.35 x 36 which is $1740.60. So, taking the higher rate actually SAVES you $1259.40 over the next 3 years.
P: Wow, Dan, you're amazing.
D: It's not me, it's the calculator!

There's more!
P: There can't be!
D: Yes! If you told me you were going to live in the place foe even 5 and a half years, i'd suggest the lower rate because it would cost you less over time.
Also, if you're SURE you're going to be there 3 years and not 2, then we might be able to save you more money. If you're willing to take a prepayment penalty for 2 years, I can probably get you a better rate. This would be a soft prepay which means you can sell the house, but not refinance it. if you refi in less than 2 years, you'll pay a penalty. but you plan to get out in three years, so it shouldn't be any big risk at all. I might be able to get you 6.25% if you take the prepayment penalty.
and so on...
You see, all I want to make on the deal is 1.5% of the loan amount. $3000. I don't care if you pay me or the bank pays me. Heck, like I said, I could probably do the deal for 5.5%, but then you'd have to pay me the $3000 i charge PLUS the amount to buy down to that rate, which I'm sure is probably 4-6,000 bucks. But that doesn't mean it's a bad deal. What if you just got a $20,00 inheritance? Maybe you've got the cash and you want low house payments. Stay in the home long enough and you'll end up saving a couple hundred grand by spending 20.
My long winded explanationcomes down to this...the deal may or may not be better based upon rate.
OK, that said. The difference between brokers and banks:
Brokers shop your loan "to get the BEST rate." (notice I didn't say LOWEST rate)
Banks give you their rate and that's it.
Upside of brokers...the best rate might in fact be the lowest. With lots of banks to choose from, there's a chance of getting a better price. Also, if a problem arises during the loan process, the broker can try another bank quickly, rather than YOU going in search of another bank.
Downside of brokers...The BEST rate might (if you're dealing with a fair-minded person) be the one where the broker gets paid what he wants and either does or doesn't pass the costs on to you. However, the BEST rate might also be one that sounds low enough, but pays a good rebate and he knows he's got you for the broker fee as well so he walks away with $7 grand on the deal and no one's the wiser. How the heck do you know the rates at First bank of Schenectady? There's also this trick: "Hey, I know we were getting you 6.25%, but your credit score dropped 10 points when they checked the tri-merge. that bank can't do the loan anymore, so I had to go with the next best thing which gets you 6.5%. It's only $30 more a month, so no big deal." Well, that no big deal is your problem not his. What does he care? And he could have done the loan at the same rate with the new credit issue, but his rebate might have dropped to .5%.
Upside of banks: They're generally cheaper in fees and maybe rates. that's because they generally pay their loan officers a flat rate or flat fee. No matter what rate the LO gets you, he's getting paid his amount so he has little reason to bump the rate up on you.
Downside of banks: No matter what you discuss with any broker or LO, in the end the inderwriters make the decisions. So if you don't fit their little "box" you won't get the loan. Then you begin you search all over again. Bigger banks have very strict rules to follow. BofA or CHASE or Citi all have great loan programs, but they do som many loans a year, they don't HAVE to accomodate everyone. they can deal with Mr. 760 credit score with $150,000 reserves in his checking account. When Mr. 639 FICO with $2200 in his checking comes along, they know that First Bank of Schenectady is there for them. they don't have to bend. Smaller banks are more flexible, but you generally have to take your broker's word for it.
Look, you're doing the right thing shopping around. Your Good Faith Estimate should include all known costs (taxes, escrows, title company fees may still be unknown, but they should ballpark them for you).
Decide how long you're keeping the place. Ask about ways to save money (prepayment penalties, temporary buy-downs, etc.). If you know you're moving in a couple years, ask about an ARM, or even the option arm if you're a bit of a dice-roller.
The mortgage broker saves you lots of time because he knows the packages and he knows the banks. There's probably no way you could do exactly waht he does, but you may not need to. if you're happy with a big bank, go with it. If not, tell him your concerns and see what he'll do. And there are hundreds of thousands of brokers...you don't NEED to deal with him.
Sorry if this got wordy, but it's a lot to explain. i hope it helped.
Good luck,
Dan
p.s. Again, for simplicity, i left out taxes and insurance/maintenance fees on the monthly payment. That would factor in to your decision, but I was just trying to make a point, not teach a mortgage math class.
